Part 1-----
Kiyomitsu Katayama, who trained at a first-class restaurant in Ginza, took over a Kyoto-style kaiseki restaurant in Ebisu and became its owner. He is supported by adult customers for his hospitality, which incorporates his hobbies of tea ceremony and calligraphy.
Highlighting the Colors and Flavors of Vegetables with Shojin Ryori Techniques
This time, Mr. Katayama specially prepared 10 dishes, including those that were popular at his cooking classes. Here, we would like to introduce 6 of them.
First, from shojin ryori, "Turnip Surinagashi" and "Vegetable Hakusen-age."
The dashi used for the turnip is made only from kelp. The general theory is to soak the kelp in water overnight, then heat it with the water and "remove it just before boiling." But how do you determine "just before"?
"If the water is bubbling vigorously, it's too late. If you press the kelp with chopsticks and a lot of bubbles come out from its edge, that's the time to remove it."
For the white coating of Hakusen-age, which highlights the beautiful colors of vegetables, there is a method of combining potato starch and whipped egg whites, but in shojin ryori, potato starch and weak flour are used. By first dissolving potato starch in water and then mixing in weak flour, the coating is said to have almost no oil splattering.
"You don't need to be as meticulous as with tempura; it's okay to mix until there are no lumps. You can easily make it at home."
As its name suggests, "Anago Shirani" should have a pale color. The soy sauce used is light soy sauce from "Sawai Shoyu Honten" in Kyoto. He uses light soy sauce for many dishes, not just this one.
When pouring hot water over the skin of the conger eel and then plunging it into ice water to scrape off the sliminess, he recommends using an "iron griddle spatula" instead of the back of a knife.
Since the sauce is not rich, the key to its deliciousness is to lightly char it over charcoal first to add a smoky aroma.
For "Aji no Bōzushi," thick and fatty horse mackerel from Toyama is filleted, salted, and then cured in vinegar.
"When removing the pin bones, be careful not to damage the flesh and use the knife delicately. If you chill the vinegar beforehand, you can smoothly peel the skin of the horse mackerel later. Today, I'm putting grated ginger marinated in sanbaizu (vinegar dressing) inside, but it's also delicious to mix yuzu or sesame seeds with the rice."
For the duck breast from Ibaraki Prefecture, the skin is seared until crispy, then it is simmered with seasonings such as soy sauce. "It remains moist and tender even when cold, so it can be used as a cold dish in Japanese cuisine."
And a Japanese confectionery item typical of the restaurant is "Kokuto Manju." The skin is made from brown sugar, refined white sugar, water, weak flour, and jōyōko (fine-grained flour made fromうるち米 - non-glutinous rice), wrapped around koshian (smooth red bean paste), and then steamed.
The trick is to "work as quickly as possible when wrapping, as the skin tends to dry out." Mr. Katayama effortlessly wraps one after another, but achieving that requires diligent practice.
40-Year-Old Kimono, 20-Year-Old Western Clothes
Mr. Katayama married at 29 and at 37, he is now a father of two boys.
Other than his work, tea ceremony, and calligraphy, he has no interest in private fashion and doesn't spend money on it.
His body shape has barely changed from before, so "the trousers I'd been wearing since high school finally ripped (laughs)." He wears one pair of shoes until they're worn out, so a senior colleague, seeing his predicament, bought him sneakers as a gift.
Nike sneakers given as a gift by Satoshi Ogino of "Akasaka Ogino." "In the end, these are all I wear."
He has several kimonos for tea ceremonies and practice. The photo shows a haori and ensemble that his grandfather gave to his father when he got married. He received the haori, which his father had never worn for 40 years. It's a little small, but he likes it.
Aiming to be a chef who captures the essence of universal deliciousness
Finally, a question. ——— What constitutes a “delicious” restaurant for you?
"Well... speaking from my experience as a diner, it would be a place that leaves a vivid impression in my memory. Like the Aji Sushi at 'Sushi Mizukami' in Hanzomon or the eggplant appetizer at 'Asahina Gastronome' in Nihonbashi Kabutocho—even now, I can clearly recall their deliciousness in my mouth, and the scene from that time vividly appears in my mind, never fading. I truly think they are wonderful establishments.
However, this might sound contradictory, but the kind of restaurant I aim for is not one that creates a sensation with a single dish. To be extreme, I even think that the cuisine is just a small part of the restaurant. It's a place where you somehow feel at ease. A place where you can relax and spend your time comfortably. I would be happy if people felt that way."
Japanese cuisine has a long history, built by predecessors, and Mr. Katayama says, "It would be presumptuous for me, with less than 20 years of experience, to talk about my own cooking." His humble and gentle demeanor is surely what makes both gourmets and those new to fine dining want to return again and again.
"An antique piece of art that has stood the test of hundreds of years is considered beautiful by people of its time and by us today. The beautiful things, and the heart that perceives beauty, don't change that much across different eras, do they?
Similarly, in cuisine, classical techniques and dishes have continued to this day because they are delicious and make sense. I want to be a chef who can grasp the essence of that universal deliciousness, a chef with unwavering conviction."
