Part 1-----
Born into a family that ran a liquor store in Shinjuku, he gained experience in various establishments such as kappo restaurants, a sushi restaurant in Milan, Italian restaurants in Tokyo, and standing bars before opening his own business. He ran a successful restaurant in Shinjuku for 11 years before relocating to Ebisu.
The exquisite flavors of ingredients and sauces: BASE-CHIC's signature dish, boiled dumplings
The boiled dumplings were developed from the beginning with the intention of making them a signature dish. The impetus was Mr. Nakayama's fondness for drinking alcohol with dumplings, and considering the operation and flavor variations, boiled dumplings were more suitable than pan-fried dumplings.
Three types are always available, varying slightly depending on the season. For example, "Boiled pork, lotus root, and shiso dumplings with red dashi and special charred ginger sauce," "Boiled shrimp and dill dumplings with special lemon soy sauce and Taiwanese chili oil," and "Boiled lamb spice dumplings with sesame and chive soy sauce paste" are offered, enticing appetites with the exquisite flavors of the ingredients and sauces.
He says, "I'm thinking of something that customers will be satisfied with at a price of 800 yen or more for 2 pieces." As planned, it is a popular menu item that most customers order.
Additionally, the "Jet-Black Braised Pork Belly" made with two types of Chinese and Japanese black vinegar and brown sugar, and the "Soupless Hong Kong Shrimp Noodles" with shrimp roe noodles, have been staple dishes since the restaurant's opening.
From quick appetizers like pâté, liver mousse, and pickles, to fresh sardine carpaccio with grilled eggplant sauce and fermented tomato sauce, fritto of butterbur sprouts and Brussels sprouts sprinkled with olive powder and homemade dukkah, stewed squid and wagyu tripe featuring the flavor of 'Nduja, a raw salami from Southern Italy, and Turkish fried spring rolls 'Sigara,' the menu is filled with dishes that make you want to order them all. Pasta and several desserts are available to finish the meal.
A variety of daily changing glass wines, mainly natural orange wines, are available, as well as beer, craft shochu, sake, highballs, and non-alcoholic options such as homemade kombucha.
About 85% of the customers are women, mainly in their 30s and 40s. The average customer spend is approximately 9,000 yen.
Venison with fermented cabbage, firefly squid with beets and yogurt
This time, we had 5 dishes prepared for us.
First, a venison-based variation of the signature boiled dumplings. The filling combines minced venison with fermented hakusai cabbage and fennel seeds, topped with grilled eggplant sauce. This grilled eggplant sauce, however, has an exotic flavor with added herbs, cumin, and extra virgin olive oil, with a boost in richness and smoothness from the finishing extra virgin olive oil.
A salad of red vegetables such as beets and lemon-marinated firefly squid is served with a yogurt sauce containing cucumber, similar to Greek tzatziki. The taste changes depending on how it's mixed, allowing for different flavor experiences.
"The key is to infuse the oil with spice aromas, add a pinch of salt each time vegetables are incorporated, heat slowly, and finally add red wine vinegar and the red liquid from boiling beet skins to create a dressing-like emulsification of oil and water."
While one might be drawn to the uniqueness of the dishes, it is not just the ideas but also the careful process and precise timing that serve as the foundation, setting apart the quality of a professional.
The gratin with Sanriku oysters combines fermented cabbage and mozzarella. The oysters are quickly sautéed beforehand to add a savory aroma and concentrate their flavor. The cabbage is lactic-acid fermented in brine, enhancing its umami and nutritional value.
The mozzarella is fresh and creamy, from "Latteria Bebe Kamakura."
BASE-CHIC offers homemade high-hydration bread, which is also available for takeout. While usually made with strong flour, this time a combination of strong, medium, and whole wheat flour was used. By increasing the sugar content, it achieves a moist and sweet finish.
The last dish is panzerotti, a fried bread from the Puglia region. While various fillings exist, such as tomato and mozzarella, or ricotta and spinach, Mr. Nakayama opted for the sweet version popular locally: Nutella (hazelnut spread). He adds a small amount of mascarpone, lemon zest, and amaretto liqueur to give the flavor a sharp contrast.
Exploring what he can do through cooking
Mr. Nakayama, who chose the current location based on his intuition, struggled with attracting customers in the initial stages of opening, unlike during his time in Shinjuku. Considering sales beyond regular restaurant operations, he started selling bento boxes.
"A stylist friend of mine suggested, 'Why don't you do bento boxes and catering?' Given the area, there are many photography studios and apparel companies, so word-of-mouth gradually spread.
With the COVID-19 pandemic, I set up a dedicated Instagram account. For individual bento boxes, we take orders for a minimum of 7, with a 3-day advance notice. We deliver by motorbike or customers can pick up at the store.
For rice-based bento boxes specifically, the side dishes are primarily Japanese. The reason is simple: they taste good even when cold. I make an effort to use plenty of vegetables and arrange them colorfully."
He also irregularly holds cooking classes in a demonstration and meal-provision format. Recently, he has also been involved in OEM cookie manufacturing.
"For bento boxes, even if it means working all night to make a large quantity, the clear goal makes it enjoyable for me rather than a chore.
However, fluctuating customer numbers that are unpredictable are very stressful. The number of people drinking alcohol is also decreasing, and the path for restaurants to survive is becoming increasingly difficult.
That's why I'm always exploring what I can do through cooking. For example, I sometimes think that sharing this restaurant with colleagues and pursuing other culinary work myself might be a viable option in the future."
Finally, a question: What constitutes a "delicious" restaurant to you?
"It's a place with trustworthy people who have worked there for many years. Not just the chef, but service staff too.
Seeing familiar faces is reassuring, and the fact that such wonderful people stay means it's a comfortable place for employees, so naturally, a good atmosphere permeates the restaurant, I believe."
Mr. Nakayama's days off are spent not only dining at such delicious restaurants, but also "often gathering with friends to host home parties.
I'm always in charge of the cooking, of course. I enjoy getting inspiration from listening to people from various professions." Thus, Mr. Nakayama is always "in the kitchen," both personally and professionally.
