ー After returning to Japan, Mr. Miyauchi opened the Tokyo branch of "Le Verre Volé," later renamed "Meguro Un Jour." We will introduce the story behind its opening and the dishes prepared by Chef Naho Katahira.
Wine selection is based on the personality of the producer
In November 2012, "Le Verre Volé à Tokyo" opened. A liquor retail license was acquired simultaneously with the opening. The interior design was entrusted to a Paris-based designer, incorporating iconic elements such as red-framed wine racks and bistro chairs.
The structure is long and narrow, with a dining area of about 20 seats at the front, and wine bottles for presentation lining the walls on both sides. At the back are an 8-seat counter, the kitchen, and a temperature-controlled wine cellar.
Mr. Miyauchi writes the food menu on a blackboard, and there is no wine list. Instead, he verbally explains several types of glass wines and recommended bottles of the day, and customers decide after consultation.
"For example, to put it extremely, I would sit next to the customer and discuss which wine to choose. I tried this common practice in Parisian shops in Japan, but it didn't seem to suit Japanese people, so I stopped it."
Most of the wines are from France, with approximately 200 types and 3,000 bottles of natural wine. There are over 100 producers, all of whom he is familiar with. When I expressed surprise, Mr. Miyauchi said:
"But you can remember that many friends and acquaintances, right? The criteria for choosing wine are the producer, terroir, and taste. The most important thing is the person. If you meet, talk, and share a meal with someone, and you connect with them, then the wine they produce must be delicious. You shouldn't start with taste or price."
Handwritten notes are scattered on the walls throughout the shop. These are signatures and messages from natural wine producers. Those who can read French can't help but smile or be impressed. Even if you can't read them, it's clear that many producers visit the shop and show their camaraderie.
"Centered around the late Shinsaku Katsuyama, owner of 'Shonzui,' a pioneer in spreading natural wine in Japan, people from various fields gathered to hold 'FESTIVIN,' a natural wine festival, irregularly, and many producers visited Japan. They stopped by our shop then, and without even being asked, they started writing on the walls, and it just kept growing (laughs)."
Cooking is simple, valuing seasonality. A female chef from Yamagata
Several chefs have rotated in the kitchen over the years, with their individuality reflected in the dishes each time. The current chef, Naho Katahira, joined in 2023. Her family in Yamagata Prefecture cultivates organic vegetables and raises pigs. She worked at a restaurant in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, for 15 years, and 2023 marks her first time living in Tokyo for her current position. She learned about natural wine at the age of 20 and became interested in it, and she first met Mr. Miyauchi at a natural wine event held in Sendai.
The menu is à la carte, with a focus on appetizers that pair well with wine. She prioritizes seasonal ingredients, aiming to create dishes unique to each season. Mr. Miyauchi praises her "delicate, feminine taste."
This time, she prepared dishes using opened conger eel from "Jomon Shokuhin" and beef rump from "Nagomi Nosan."
"The conger eel was lightly battered with carbonated water and deep-fried to enhance its plump texture. The beef rump is not overly fatty and has a taste you won't tire of. A simple steak is best."
The accompanying vegetables are from "Farm Na Zemi." The conger eel was served with a salsa made from finely chopped various vegetables. While it somehow evokes the dashi (broth) of Ms. Katahira's hometown of Yamagata, it is seasoned with only salt, extra virgin olive oil, and lemon juice.
The beef rump is accompanied by a vibrant beet puree. Red onion and sherry vinegar add depth to the flavor.
Cleaning the toilet is the owner's job
In 2017, the sister store's signboard was removed, and "Meguro Un Jour" was launched to achieve true independence. "Un Jour" means "one day," evoking the image of a place where one can relax in everyday life, and it also refers to Anjou, where Miyauchi lived when he worked at "Domaine Mos." However, Miyauchi says that "what is important to me is that it was named by the late Daisuke Iketani, former president of Vainqueur, a natural wine importer," rather than these origins, emphasizing that "human connection" is key here too.
Vintage glasses from Jura, France, that led to the collaboration with ayame. He likes the texture, which conveys the warmth of careful craftsmanship.
Mr. Miyauchi maintains his unique style in fashion as well. The uniform he wears is vintage linen from the Parisian brand "ANATOMICA." In November 2025, a collaboration with the Japanese eyewear brand "ayame" will launch, featuring an Un Jour model. Such is the owner's character, which naturally manifests in the shop's atmosphere. Just as Mr. Miyauchi was once attracted to a dreadlocked owner, perhaps people who resonate with the shop's vibe gather here as well.
"Natural wine is not about pontificating or being strict about 'it must be this.' It's about relaxing and having fun. If someone says, 'Tonight, I feel like having a highball first,' serving them a craft gin made in Japan is perfectly fine. Please feel free to visit."
Finally, when asked, "What makes a 'delicious' restaurant for you?", Mr. Miyauchi paused for a moment, then pointed to the messages from wine producers written on the wall next to the kitchen at the back of the shop.
Above is the late Henri-Frédéric Roch (Prieuré-Roch), a winemaker from Burgundy.
Below is René-Jean Dard (Dard et Ribo), a winemaker from the Rhône.
On ne fait pas des métiers faciles mais que c'est agréable.
It's not an easy job, but it's very enjoyable.
ICI, LE BONHEUR N'EST PAS VOLÉ.
IL EST DANS LES VERRES.
Here, happiness is not stolen.
It is in the glasses.
The message above likely implies that this is a shop where people who find joy in their work, no matter how challenging, are involved.
The former name, Le Verre Volé, literally translates to "The Stolen Glass," and the message below plays on that. The happiness in the glasses, of course, refers to natural wine, but it also indicates "a place where you can drink it with peace of mind."
Incidentally, Mr. Miyauchi says, "Cleaning the shop's toilet is the owner's job; I don't let the staff do it." The owner's aesthetic is reflected in every detail.
