[Meguro Anjour] The chef's selection of natural wine and exquisite cuisine, shifting from Paris to Meguro (Part 2)

After returning to Japan, Miyauchi opened the Tokyo branch of "Le Vert Vole", which was later renamed "Meguro Anjour". We will introduce the opening and the cuisine prepared by chef Naho Katahira. Part 1 is here The wines we sell are decided based on the winemaker's personality Le Vert Vole à Tokyo opened in November 2012. A liquor store license was obtained at the same time. The interior was commissioned to a Paris-based designer, who incorporated iconic elements of the store, such as red-framed wine racks and bistro chairs. The restaurant has a long structure with a dining area at the front that seats about 20 people, and wine bottles for presentations line the walls on both sides. At the back, there is a counter with eight seats, a kitchen, and a temperature-controlled wine cellar. Miyauchi writes the menu on a blackboard, and there is no wine list. Instead, he verbally explains the several wines by the glass and recommended bottles of the day, and guests decide together after discussing them. "For example, to take an extreme example, I would sit next to the customer and discuss which wine to choose. This is a common practice in our Paris store, and we tried it in Japan, but it didn't seem to suit Japanese people, so we stopped doing it." Most of the wines are from France, and the store stocks 3,000 bottles of natural wine from around 200 different varieties. There are over 100 producers, and Miyauchi knows all of them. "But you can remember that much about friends and acquaintances, right? The criteria for choosing wine are the winemaker, the terroir, and the taste. The most important thing is the person. If you meet, talk, eat with, and connect with someone, the wine they make is sure to be delicious. Taste and price are not the first things you consider." There are handwritten letters all over the walls of the store. They are signs and messages from natural wine producers. Those who can read French will find themselves grinning and impressed. Even if you can't read French, it's easy to see that many producers visit the store and show their friendship. "The late Shinsaku Katsuyama, owner of Shozui, was a pioneer in spreading natural wine in Japan. He was the center of a variety of people gathering together to hold the occasional natural wine festival, FESTIVIN, which brought many producers to Japan. On these occasions, they would stop by our store, and even though we didn't ask them to, they started writing about us without us even knowing, and the number of reviews just kept growing (laughs)." The chef, a female native of Yamagata, values seasonality and keeps the food simple. Over the years, the restaurant has had several chefs in the kitchen, each reflecting their own individuality. The current chef is Naho Katahira, who took up the position in 2023. Her family grew organic vegetables and raised pigs in Yamagata Prefecture. She worked at a restaurant in Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture, for 15 years, and moved to Tokyo for the first time in 2023 to take up her current position. She discovered and became interested in natural wine when she was 20 years old, and met Miyauchi at a natural wine event held in Sendai. The menu is à la carte, with many appetizers to go with wine. They aim to make the most of seasonal ingredients and create dishes that are unique to that time of year. Miyauchi praises the food for its "delicate, feminine flavors." This time, we had them prepare a dish using filleted conger eel from Jomon Foods and beef rump from Nagomi Farm . "The conger eel is fried in a light batter containing carbonated water, bringing out its springy texture. The beef rump is not greasy and has a flavor you won't tire of. A simple steak is the best." The accompanying vegetables are from Farm Na Zemi . The conger eel is served with a salsa made from a variety of finely chopped vegetables. The flavor is somewhat reminiscent of the dashi stock from Katahira's hometown of Yamagata, and the seasonings are salt, extra virgin olive oil, and lemon juice. The beef rump is served with a vibrant beet puree, and red onion and sherry vinegar add depth to the flavor. Cleaning the toilets is the owner's job In 2017, they removed the sign of their sister store and started as "Meguro Anjour" to become truly independent. Anjour means "one day" and is a reference to the image of a store where you can relax during your everyday life, as well as Anjou, where Miyauchi lived while working at Domaine Moss. However, Miyauchi says that rather than the origin of the name, "what is important to me is that the late Taisuke Ikeya, former president of Vancour, a natural wine importer, named it for me," and here too, "connections with people" are the key. The reason for his collaboration with ayame was the vintage glasses from Jura, France. He says he likes the texture that gives off the warmth of careful handwork. Miyauchi is also true to his own style when it comes to fashion. His uniform is vintage linen from the Parisian brand ANATOMICA. In November 2025, he will collaborate with the Japanese eyewear brand ayame to release the Anjou model. The owner's character is naturally reflected in the atmosphere of the store. Just as Miyauchi was once drawn to the dreadlocked owner, this place will likely attract people who share the same wavelength. "Natural wine is not something you have to talk about or be stoic about, but something you can relax and enjoy. If someone says, 'I feel like having a highball tonight,' it's perfectly fine to serve them with a domestic craft gin. Please feel free to come." Finally, in response to the question, "What does a delicious restaurant mean to you?" Miyauchi thought for a moment, then pointed to a message from a wine producer written on the wall next to the kitchen at the back of the restaurant. Above is the late Burgundy winemaker Henri Fredec Roch (Prueille Roch). Below is Rhone winemaker Rene Jean Dart (Dart & Ribot). On ne fait pas des métiers faciles mais que c'est agréable. It's not an easy job, but it's a lot of fun. ICI, LE BONHEUR N'EST PAS VOLÉ. IL EST DANS LES VERRES. Happiness cannot be stolen here. It's in the glass. The message above is that this is a store staffed by people who can say, "This job is fun," no matter how difficult it may be. The former name, Le Verre Volé, literally translates to "the stolen glass," and the message below is a play on that. Happiness in a glass, of course, refers to natural wine, but also to "a place where you can drink it in peace." Incidentally, Miyauchi says, "Cleaning the restrooms in the store is the owner's job, I don't ask the staff to do it." The owner's aesthetic sense is evident in the details. Writer: Yumiko Watanabe / Photographer: Ayako Masunaga

The wines we sell are decided based on the winemaker's personality

宮内 亮太郎／片平 菜穂

宮内亮太郎／片平菜穂