-- Mr. Nakanishi, who opened a natural wine bar in Nishikoyama in 2021. The number of visitors from Asian countries has increased, and just recently, an event at a natural wine bar in Seoul, stemming from these connections, concluded successfully.
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Silk Sweet and Amagi Shamo Chicken enhanced by confit
West's à la carte menu is written on the blackboard.
There are not many dishes, about a dozen, but they include charcuterie such as "Country-style Pâté" and "Boudin Noir with Apple," vegetable dishes like "Okra with Bagna Cauda" and "Warm Cauliflower Potage," seafood dishes such as "Seared Spanish Mackerel with Piperade" and "Oysters and Log-grown Shiitake Gratin,"
meat dishes like "Roasted Kinka Pork with Sweet Potato Confit," homemade pasta utilizing experience from Italian cuisine, and desserts such as "Chocolate Terrine" and "Pudding," presenting a well-balanced lineup of all-stars.
Here are three dishes Mr. Nakanishi prepared for us right in front of our eyes.
The first dish is "Bigfin Reef Squid and Beet Tartare," with a beautiful contrast of white and purple. The beets are slowly roasted whole, cut to the same size as the squid, and combined in equal parts. Seasoned simply with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil, it is served with anchovy sauce on the side.
The bigfin reef squid, carefully selected by Okamoto Seafood Store in Toyama, is exceptionally fresh, with an irresistible texture and sweetness. First, enjoy the natural flavor of the ingredients, then mix in some anchovy sauce as desired to change the taste.
If there's any sauce left over, it's also delicious with bread. The bread, by the way, is wood-fired pain de campagne from "Bakery Shiomi" in Minami-Shinjuku.
The second dish is "Silk Sweet Potage" made with organic sweet potatoes from "Farm Na Zemi" in Chiba Prefecture.
"Silk Sweet has a moist texture, so I thought confiting it in olive oil rather than roasting it would bring out its best qualities. I combine it with onions sautéed in butter, thin it with milk and water, and don't use broth."
The third dish is "Amagi Shamo Chicken Confit." Amagi Shamo chicken, raised carefully in free-range coops in Izu City, Shizuoka Prefecture, is in a league of its own compared to broiler chickens.
Mr. Nakanishi confits the bone-in thigh meat in lard to bring out the unique umami and texture of Amagi Shamo, then sautés potatoes and shiitake mushrooms in that same lard, imparting the aroma of rosemary and garlic.
"The size of the meat is good, and it cooks faster than duck. With imported poultry being difficult these days, I want to actively use domestic meats like Amagi Shamo that offer added value."
A huge success! Pop-up Dinner in Korea
On November 1st and 2nd, a pop-up dinner was held at "MANA," a natural wine bar in Seoul, Korea. Mr. Nakanishi's course (14,000 yen) was paired with wines chosen by MANA. While some parts were prepared in Japan and brought over, they made an effort to source and utilize local ingredients as much as possible.
The course menu was as follows:
・Tuna tartare with tomato water and umeboshi sauce, fig leaf oil
・Pumpkin purée with sweet shrimp, mint, and marigold
・Matsutake mushroom fritters with bagna cauda sauce and yuzu peel
・Pork trotter croquettes with persimmon purée and cilantro
・Beef tataki with sautéed girolle and maitake mushrooms in butter, sukiyaki-style sauce, and egg yolk marinated in dashi soy sauce
・Mont Blanc with milk gelato
"It was my first visit to Korea, and I was nervous about how many customers would come to my event, given my lack of name recognition, and how the taste would be received. But the reservations for 16 guests, two rotations per night, filled up as planned, and the reaction far exceeded my expectations, which was a relief.
I had planned to roast the main Korean beef, but after tasting it, I found that its texture was suitable for raw consumption, like yukhoe, and it tended to become tough when cooked. So, I adjusted it to a seared tataki style. While called a sukiyaki-style sauce, by incorporating a French technique called 'gastrique'—caramelizing honey and adding vinegar—and also using beef sinew dashi, I created a flavor distinct from Japanese cuisine, which was particularly well-received."
The logo-emblazoned T-shirts and tenugui, previously sold and well-received, quickly sold out. At the event in Korea, the local staff and I all wore them.
What is sought and what is desired
How do you spend your private time, including hobbies?
"I've always loved saunas, and I go at least once a week. It wasn't because it was trendy; there was a period when I had eczema because I couldn't sweat, so it was for therapeutic purposes.
Last year, when I turned 40, I felt the need to manage my health and started weight training at a personal gym. Now, I'm thinking of trying mountain climbing. As a start, I went summer mountain climbing in Nagano and Yamanashi with a customer who is knowledgeable about climbing. It was refreshing and allowed me to clear my mind. I only have summer gear, and as a beginner, I haven't decided about winter climbing yet, but I hope to continue little by little."
The "Palante" backpack, which he bought because it was reputed to be light and spacious.
Of course, I love eating out and will go to any restaurant that catches my interest, regardless of genre. One place I regularly revisit is "Sushikin" in Mitaka. The owner's discerning eye and craftsmanship are superb, and he loves it so much that he uses a picture of their "fluffy and exquisite conger eel nigiri from Tsushima, Nagasaki Prefecture!" as his phone's wallpaper.
So, for the last question, what makes a "delicious" restaurant to you?
"Well... a place that makes you want to go out of your way to visit, even if it's far away. I think a place that has some kind of hook, an inexplicable draw, is because the owner has a strong, consistent belief. This applies to any type of establishment, not just wine bars.
In my case, I haven't reached that level yet, but considering the compatibility with natural wine, I try to focus on subtraction in my cooking. It's not about cutting corners, but about simplicity, where each process such as portion size, saltiness, temperature, and cooking time is carefully considered. Even within this pared-down approach, I want to add accents of spices and herbs to create a distinct West flavor.
While rustic and classic staples like gratin and french fries are always appreciated, I also want to use seasonal ingredients and offer new dishes that reflect the current moment.
I constantly ask myself if there's a discrepancy between what customers want and expect, and what I want to do, and what truly defines West's unique style. It's a daily struggle.
In any case, I'm going to steadily work hard, aiming for the 10th anniversary of the establishment first."
Among the signatures on the wall of the restaurant is one by Mr. Konno, the owner of Uguisu, his former training place: "Go West. There will be heaven."
Whether humming a tune by the Pet Shop Boys (originally the Village People) or The Drifters, why not head West?
The top signature is by Cyril Le Moine, a natural wine producer from the Loire Valley in France, who wrote, "A Sunday afternoon at West with natural wine. Yes, that's life!"
The middle one is by Shin Konno, and the bottom one is by Ryosuke Kondo from "Kondo Vineyard" in Sorachi, Hokkaido.
