A firm texture followed by a gradual oozing richness. French chefs were among the first to recognize the inherent wild flavor of Amagi Shamo chicken.
"A chef who tasted the charcoal-grilled chicken said that the aroma spreads after you swallow it. I was surprised that deliciousness could be viewed from such a perspective," recalls Toshiaki Horie, the third-generation owner.
Perhaps it was because he was a specialist who had honed his skills in a field where precise cooking brings out the differences in meat quality that he was able to immediately discern its unique characteristics. Now, experts across various genres, including Italian cuisine, yakitori chefs, and culinary artists, place their trust in Amagi Shamo.
Located on the banks of the Kano River, which flows with abundant water throughout the year.
The natural environment of Izu creates a lingering aftertaste.
About two and a half hours by car from central Tokyo, Amagi Shamo chickens are free-ranged in the mountains of the Amagi mountain range in the center of the Izu Peninsula. Flowing beside the chicken coops is the clear Kano River, where wasabi also grows. The chickens grow slowly in this water and clear air.
"The temperature difference characteristic of the mountainous region produces a fine, firm meat quality. Males are shipped at 110-140 days, and females at 120-150 days. This is nearly three times longer than broiler chickens, which are marketed at around 45 days."
Males have white feathers mixed in on the top of their heads.
Males and females live together for about 25 days after birth, then are moved to separate coops.
In a room where males gather, the crowing over territory is constant.
Horie guided us from a coop where chicks, only three days old, were housed. The chicks of "Amagi Shamo," a cross between black shamo and barred Plymouth Rock, have black down.
"There are about 1,200 here. Since they can't maintain their body temperature on their own yet, even a slight drop in room temperature causes them to huddle together for warmth. If that happens, individuals at the bottom can suffocate. We thoroughly control the temperature to prevent that."
After about a month, when their down has been replaced by feathers, they are divided into four groups by sex and moved to larger coops. The maximum capacity per room is set at 300 chickens.
"If we only considered profitability, we could increase the density. But then their movement would be restricted. Due to their short intestines, they also defecate frequently. If they're cramped, the smell would naturally become stronger. You wouldn't get delicious meat from such an environment."
Indeed, the chicken coops we visited were well-ventilated and had no pungent odor.
Owner Toshiaki Horie. He apparently DIYed a cottage to overlook the Kano River.
Sustained by the bounty of Izu
Equally important to creating the right rearing environment is how the chickens are nourished internally. Their feed consists of rice harvested nearby, mixed with sesame, soybeans, and other ingredients. This blend is the secret to their refreshing flavor and high-quality, creamy fat.
"From day 70, we also add wasabi leaves. This is more for improving their intestinal environment than for enhancing meat quality. However, since they are stress-free, their digestive systems are rarely upset."
Peering into the male coop after 120 days, it was full of energy.
"Everyone's faces are red, aren't they? That's a sign of good health. Also, when chickens get stressed, they peck at the lower back of those nearby. While there are instances of feathers being pulled out due to aggression, we don't see that here."
Cultivating a unique brand of chicken coinciding with the transition to the Heisei era
Lemons and plums ripen on the property, and hackberry trees stand along the Kano River. These trees, symbols of the chicken farm, support the comfortable lives of the Shamo chickens.
"On sunny days throughout the year, the sunlight pours down from around 10 AM to 3 PM. While the surrounding area can be scorching at noon in summer, the coops, covered by shade trees, stay cool with the river breeze."
As I admired the heavily laden kumquat trees, he told me, "My predecessor planted those." Horie Poultry Farm was established about 70 years ago by his grandfather, an egg farmer. When his father, the second generation, joined the family business, they began fattening broiler chickens, and in 1989, they shifted to producing branded chickens. To launch their own brand, they named it "Amagi Shamo" so that it would be immediately clear that it was raised in this region.
Toshiaki took over as representative about 20 years ago. He hadn't gained experience at other poultry farms; instead, he had been making Japanese drums and performing in Yufuin, Oita Prefecture.
"After about 10 years of focusing solely on Shamo chickens, I returned to Izu. When I became involved, I changed the feed. Isn't it more natural to feed them crops grown in the local soil and water if you want to get the nutrition needed for high-quality meat?"
As he reevaluated their rearing methods, he faced another challenge.
"No matter how much effort we put in, the quality can waver during processing and distribution. So, I decided that we should take responsibility for the entire process ourselves."
Driven by the desire to deliver the carefully raised "Amagi Shamo" in the best possible condition, in 2006, they established a processing plant about 5 minutes' drive from the farm. They now handle everything from rearing to slaughtering consistently.
At the processing plant, which operates every day except Saturday, each chicken is carefully butchered by hand. On the day of the interview, 51 chickens were shipped.
"We want people to enjoy it as fresh as possible. That's why we only slaughter the amount ordered at 8 AM every morning. The whole chickens, with their internal organs removed, are rested in the refrigerator for several hours. We determine the optimal time for eating and ship them chilled in the evening of the same day."
He takes charge of the entire process, from growth to the final stage of becoming a food product. This dedication impresses chefs.
Promoting the appeal of males, which are often undervalued
"In shamo chicken, the demand is high for females, which have tender, fatty meat. Males are often used for broth. Therefore, a high percentage are selected at the chick stage. However, I believe both have their strengths, so I raise and distribute them without discrimination."
Males have sharp beaks and strong legs. Due to their fighting cock origins, their chest and leg muscles are well-developed. This is why they offer a firm texture and rich umami.
"Compared to females, males have a stronger aroma and their shamo characteristics are more pronounced. Even if a new restaurant orders 'just one chicken,' I provide a whole male and female. This is so they can determine which one better suits their cuisine."
When asked about other selection criteria, he replied:
"When handling male meat, the age range of the customers is also important. If the majority are elderly, the unique chewiness might be a hurdle. By the way, French chefs use them interchangeably depending on the menu."
Is the peak season for fatty meat still winter, then?
"If I had to pick a season, it would be summer. As the temperature rises, appetite and water intake decrease. The leaner meat has a delicate flavor and pairs well with summer vegetables like eggplant and cucumber. People tend to imagine juicy meat, but shamo chicken isn't meant to be cooked rich."
Finally, I asked about a dish that highlights the unique character of "Amagi Shamo."
"That would definitely be 'grilled.' I'd like you to try it with just salt, if possible."
