[Mardi Gras] Global Fieldwork and Insights Create Food That Captures People's Stomachs and Hearts (Part 2)

Wachi has had a strong interest in overseas countries since he was a teenager, and has always acted on his curiosity. Even after opening his own restaurant, that spirit has remained unchanged, and he has continued to dig deeper into the world's cuisine.

I want to continue to have the desire to know no matter how old I get

After working as chef at Apollinaire, a new restaurant in the Hiramatsu Group and a large, casual establishment, for a year, he left the company and became chef at Grape Gumbo in Ginza in 1998. The late owner, Shinsaku Katsuyama, selected wines from around the world, and the background music was his favorite 70s rock, jazz, and blues. To match the selection, Wachi used spices and seasonings to create dishes incorporating flavors from around the world. Even now, looking back, it was a very innovative restaurant.

Three years later, when he opened his own restaurant, Mardi Gras, he continued to serve pintxos, which he had been serving since the days of Grape Gumbo, as well as charcoal and wood-grilled dishes and tagines, all before they became popular in Japan.

Before opening each restaurant, Wachi traveled to New York and Europe for about a month to sample different dishes. He was so mobile that he was on a plane to France the day after he quit Grape Gumbo.
At the time, he spent a lot of time eating at trendy restaurants around the world, but since then he has started to seek out rare ingredients and more indigenous cuisine, and his travels have expanded to Latin America, Asia, and other places, as well as within Japan.

"Right now, I'd like to go to the Highlands in northern Scotland to eat Highland beef, and I'd like to learn about fermented foods in Myanmar. Sadly, that's no longer possible, but I would have liked to experience the food cultures of Russia and Ukraine firsthand."

He is an avid fan of kitchen gadgets. This is a paring knife made by Tottori Cutlery Forgery with a handle made of wild cherry wood. Apparently, he waited a year for it to arrive.

"I also like the thin recipe booklets sold in places like local kiosks, and I often buy them. They're fascinating as they give you insight into the everyday eating habits of the area. For example, when I went to the West Coast of the United States, someone in the local charcuterie industry was carrying my book. As someone who has always bought foreign books, it was a truly delightful experience for me."

Wachi has no intention of simply recreating what he learns from his travels in Japan or making them popular. With a stronger sense of curiosity and inquisitiveness than most, he simply wants to visit the places known as the birthplaces or origins of each cuisine, see, taste, and experience it. After accumulating this knowledge and mentally digesting it, he creates a Mardi Gras-style dish, or gives back as advice in various fields, from Japan's primary industries to restaurants.

"As we get older, we tend to do nothing but teach others, but I think it's important to maintain a desire to know and learn, no matter how old you are. Traveling is the best way to achieve that, and if it ever becomes a chore, it's a warning that "I'm in trouble."

The famous French fries are no longer available

Before COVID-19, he traveled abroad on average twice a year, not only during the store's holidays, but also when he was away, leaving the business in charge. Wasn't he worried?

"Even famous chefs from world-renowned restaurants aren't always there. A restaurant is run by a team, and I don't think it's necessary for the owner-chef to prepare every dish. However, this only works if you have reliable staff. When they're not there, you can't go overseas."

"Chefs of the Yutori generation are not only not used to strictness, but I also feel that many of them are not good at multitasking. There is a tendency for them to jump straight into the world of creative cooking without knowing the basics, but this can lead to difficulties later on. How to communicate with them and help them develop is a major challenge for me."

During his time at Grape Gumbo, he came up with "Tuscan Fries" inspired by an essay on French fries in "Gastronomy" (by Jeffrey Steingarden, published by Bungeishunju), and they became a huge hit at Mardi Gras. The dish is made by loosely coating potatoes in strong flour and slowly frying them with herbs. He later tried them at a restaurant in Lucca, Tuscany, where the dish originated, but found his own recipe to be crispier and more delicious. However, he removed them from the menu about 15 years ago.



"We had orders coming in from every seat every day, but we didn't want to rely on that popularity, so we decided to put it on hold. However, we did offer it as a takeout item during the COVID-19 pandemic. I think it might be interesting to bring it back as a menu item every year in September, the month we open."

During the COVID-19 pandemic, he first offered takeout items such as hamburgers and Tuscan fries. Many restaurants were unfamiliar with the takeout service, and while there was a tendency for food poisoning prevention measures to be insufficient, he took great care and stopped before summer. His restaurant mainly serves Western dishes such as cutlets and steaks. "People are feeling anxious, so I thought the mellow flavor of Western food would be a relief," he said.

He reviewed and improved his sauce Español, changed the breadcrumbs from grated baguette to the type used by a famous tonkatsu restaurant, and chose tableware suitable for Western cuisine from a local folk craft store.

Food and service that cares

--What is a "delicious" restaurant to you?

"It's a restaurant that gives you peace of mind. We live in an age where looking good takes precedence, and chefs have no choice but to be conscious of that, but I feel that such dishes lack warmth. They may look beautiful, but they don't convey any warmth to your heart. I'm not talking about whether they're cold or hot, but the warmth of your heart.

On the other hand, I find it a bit tiring for diners to eat self-indulgent food that seems to impose the chef's will on them. I'm drawn to restaurants that offer food and service that empathize with the feelings of enjoying conversation with friends over a meal, or couples talking about love , and I want my restaurant to be that way too."

I also asked him, "Have you ever cried at work?" I was expecting tears of frustration during training or tears of joy when he succeeded, but Wachi's answer was unexpected.

One day, a man who was near death came to the restaurant and chose Mardi Gras as his final supper. Despite the detailed restrictions, such as not using salt or sugar, he made efforts to create a delicious dish, such as using mushrooms to make a stock. He said he prepared the dish while holding back tears.

At times, chefs also play a role in caring for people's lives.

Writer: Yumiko Watanabe / Photographer: Tomoyasu Uaki