Notebooks for realizing dreams
After returning from France, he worked as a sous chef at "Madame Toki" in Daikanyama for about three years to save up capital for his business (after which he became freelance to search for a property). He began jotting down his ideas for his ideal restaurant in a notebook even before he went to France, during his time at "Marché au Vin Yamada."
"I write about everything that can be a hint for creating a restaurant, such as the restaurant's concept, service style, menu, interior design, and hardware aspects like fixtures and equipment. Or, things I don't want to do, or shouldn't do, as self-admonitions, and inspiring words from top chefs and celebrities.
Notebooks filled with quotes from famous chefs, appearing throughout the "Logos & Lessons" pages. Menu ideas are accompanied by detailed illustrations.
By verbalizing what I've vaguely thought about, it helps to organize my thoughts, clarify what needs to be done, and spark new ideas. Most importantly, it increases the possibility of my dreams coming true, so I recommend it to young chefs. For example, my ideal restaurant, which I wrote down as having "greenery and flowers all around," an "entrance with a single step up," and a "warm, antique atmosphere," has all been realized."
Antique plates from Saint-Amand in France and Boch Frères Keramis in Belgium, and beloved ceramics by contemporary potters such as Minoru Suzuki, Yuki Kubota, and Nofuko Konno.
Ever since being captivated by antique dishes and glasses at a French flea market on his first visit, he has vacationed there almost every year, gradually collecting pieces with the intention of someday incorporating them into his own restaurant. In addition to French items, he also includes nostalgic Showa-era Noritake and pieces by contemporary potters like Mashiko-yaki, which pairs well with French cuisine.
"I appreciate the concept of 'onkochishin' (learning new things from old) and handmade crafts. That's why I combine old and modern items, and I also have a retail corner in the restaurant with original Basque linen aprons, my favorite seasonings, natural-scented hand soaps, and more.
Is it a bit unusual? I don't really think of my restaurant as 'my castle,' and I don't see it as just a place to serve food. That's why I actively organize events like wine tasting parties, dinner parties with vegetable producers, and collaborations with potters and floral designers.
Wouldn't it be more enjoyable for both creators and customers if it were a place where various people and things interact? At least, I find it very stimulating and fun (laughs)."
Japanese-friendly flavors crafted with ingredient selection and aromatic techniques
The first dish we had this time was the signature "Achoa en Croûte." Achoa (AXOA) is a traditional Basque dish meaning "chopped." It's a stew made with ground meat, bell peppers, onions, and Espelette pepper powder, which is typical of the Basque region. While veal is often used for the meat, Eme uses pork, adding a small amount of pig's trotters and sweet peppers. Pig's trotters, rich in collagen, enhance the meat's umami and juiciness without making it heavy, as it's not fat. Espelette pepper is served on the side, allowing diners to adjust the spiciness to their preference.
Also, while achoa in Basque is typically served with rice or potatoes, Mr. Muto's original method is to serve it en croute (in pastry). For the dorure (egg wash for the pastry), he uses a mixture of reduced coffee and egg yolk, which gives it a beautiful brown color without affecting the taste.
"While Basque dishes like Achoa, Garbure, Piperade, and Gâteau Basque are characteristics of our restaurant, I also want to convey the charm of classical and authentic French cuisine. The en croute dish is one of its representatives.
However, Wellington-style dishes, like beef fillet wrapped with foie gras and mushroom duxelles, or game with heavy sauces, are quite rich and too extraordinary in both cost and taste. I wanted to offer an easier and lighter pastry dish not just in winter but all year round, so I wrapped Achoa and served it with chicken jus. It was well-received and has become a staple. I always recommend it to first-time visitors."
Another dish is "Poêlé of Kinmedai and Vegetables." The Kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) is grilled, and various vegetables such as cucumbers, radishes, and turnips are blanched and then quickly pan-fried. These vegetables are cultivated at " Kaze no Oka Farm," an organic farm in Ogawa-machi, Saitama Prefecture. "Their individual characteristics are vibrant and delicious," says Mr. Muto. The sauce is a beurre blanc with moujean oil (a flavorful oil with a lemon-like aroma and a slightly pungent taste) and parsley oil added.
"Even with butter, the aroma creates a light aftertaste. Not just for this dish, aroma is a key point for me. I value freshness, so I pay attention to balance; for example, I reduce the sweetness from aromatic vegetables in the sauce base, as it would interfere with the freshness."
~aimer~ Aiming for a restaurant full of love
Mr. Muto rarely cooks at home, instead enjoying his wife's home cooking with wine. On his days off, he visits vegetable and wine producers, and often stops by local public baths afterward. He also enjoys watching stage performances, such as at small theaters, with his wife, who is a dancer and early music performer.
He visits interesting restaurants of all genres. He wants to know the secrets of long-standing establishments and the appeal of lively new ones, so his "restaurants to visit" list is endless. Although he doesn't typically visit the same place many times, he is fond of the French restaurant "Shibu Onsen Shokudo Gonki" in Nagano and plans to visit it regularly.
Well, it's almost time to wrap up the interview, so for the last question:
"It's a place where you can convey and receive loving thoughts. The thoughts of the ingredient and wine producers, the craftsmanship of the dishes, flowers, and furniture, the hospitality of the service staff, the expression of the chefs... a restaurant where love is the foundation of everything and is presented on the plate and in the space.
Such a restaurant fills me with genuine happiness and satisfaction. The name 'Eme' comes from the pronunciation of 'aimer' in French, which means 'to love,' 'to like,' 'to cherish.' And that's exactly the kind of loving restaurant I aim for."
