Prioritizing flavor improvement over meat quality grade
Anyone familiar with cattle farming would be surprised to hear about "Japanese Black cattle raised entirely on domestic feed." This is because most livestock farmers feed their cattle imported feed due to the high cost and insufficient supply of domestic feed. However, Nagomi Nosan uses domestic ingredients, and whenever possible, sources ingredients from nearby regions for their feed.
Chef Toru Wachi, owner of the French restaurant "Mardi Gras" and a renowned master of meat dishes, is also very interested in Nagomi Nosan. He commented, "I tried their hamburg steak and it was delicious. I'm also intrigued by their long-term rearing period." We visited Nagomi Nosan's farm in Tendo City, Yamagata Prefecture with Chef Wachi.
Nagomi Nosan's predecessor was a contract farmer (raising calves entrusted to them), so the current president established the company to raise their own cattle. They initially started with the common method of "reducing feed costs to make cattle larger," but faced a challenge when they couldn't obtain feed after the Great East Japan Earthquake. It was then that they "tried feeding them whatever they could," and the improved flavor turned out to be a turning point.
"At the time, there was a 'rice surplus' (a situation where rice production exceeded consumption), and feed rice was cheap, so we tried giving it to them. Then, the fat became light and delicious," says Katsumi Yano, the executive director. "Beef is generally judged to be delicious by its B.M.S. (Beef Marbling Standard), which indicates the degree of marbling, but we don't focus on marbling. We use B.M.S. as a reference and prioritize flavor above all else."
In Japan, the price of beef is determined by its grade. Therefore, many producers, in order to achieve a high meat quality grade and increase marbling, feed their cattle not only roughage like hay, but also a large amount of concentrated feed such as corn and soybeans to accumulate fat.
As a result, feed, starting with corn for feed, which is hardly produced in Japan, is currently reliant on imports. Even with concerns about genetically modified organisms, domestic feed is considered impractical.
Nagomi Nosan prioritizes flavor over meat quality grade. They strive for a light taste, and while typical compound feed often has a high proportion of corn and barley, Nagomi Nosan's main ingredient is rice. Nevertheless, finding a producer in Japan who raises cattle with domestic feed, without preservatives or additives, would be quite difficult.
"Of course, the cost is quite high, and I think it's a luxury. Still, for safety and security, we want to visit the feed production sites ourselves and use only what we've carefully selected. We also believe that food grown in the same climate and soil is compatible, so feeding local feed should result in the best flavor. We've been experimenting for several years to achieve this.
"We mix 15 types of ingredients every day and feed 5.5 tons of feed daily. The fresher the feed, the better the cattle's appetite," says farm manager Naoyuki Hoshikawa.
We've persuaded nearby farmers to grow feed corn (dent corn) for us, and we source soba flour from producers we have connections with. We also receive sake lees from a nearby sake brewery and soybean oil dregs from the nearby Sanwa Oil company."
A visitor once laughed and said, "Domestic barley is more luxurious than the oatmeal I had this morning," but the situation remains tough now with the rising prices of ingredients, including rice. Nevertheless, the beef raised on domestic feed has a fine texture, rich red meat flavor, and the sweetness and balance of fat that make the extra effort worthwhile.
How reliable ingredients are cooked is also an important point.
The used bedding collected from the barn floor contains cattle manure, urine, and sawdust. It is popular with local rice and fruit farmers.
"With the cooperation of Yamagata Prefecture and Keio University, we continue to research feed designs that enhance the nutritional value of ingredients while being gentle on the cows' stomachs and improving digestion and absorption. Even with the same ingredients, we apply several types of processing, such as hydrothermal fermentation, heating, and flaking, to stagger the cows' digestion speed.
If it's crushed too much, it doesn't work, and if there's rice husk left, it puts a strain on their stomachs, so it's quite difficult. For example, if SGS, which is rice and sake lees mixed and lactic acid fermented, fails to ferment, it can put a strain on the cows' stomachs. It's scary because if we fail here, the two years of raising the cows will be wasted."
"Producers vary in their feed preferences, with some using seaweed or spent brewer's grains. It's amazing how much this farm focuses on local ingredients. With this feed, even the offal must be delicious," says Wachi.
As a result of trial and error, they've finally been able to produce feed smoothly for the past two to three years. While many producers keep their feed blends a trade secret, Nagomi Nosan discloses everything.
"We want our customers to enjoy our beef with peace of mind, so we disclose everything from start to finish. But I'm confident that it's not something that can be easily replicated. The local cooperation, the techniques we've cultivated over the years, and the immense effort involved would be difficult for others to match."
Nagomi Nosan raises approximately 1,000 cattle. They say this number is the limit for dedicating time and effort to nutritional efficiency and cattle health.
"We want to maintain the quality of domestic feed and raise our cattle with proper care. Rather than expanding in scale, we want to continue improving and raising even more delicious beef."
What is "delicious meat"?
Pursuing the concentrated taste inherent in wagyu
It's not just the feed that's luxurious. While the fattening period is typically around 20 months, Nagomi Nosan extends it to over 980 days (32 months). By raising them slowly over a long period, the meat has a longer shelf life after processing and achieves high quality.
"If they're too young, they have too much moisture and the flavor isn't concentrated. Conversely, if they get too old, the meat becomes tough. Cattle generally start to eat less around 900 days. The industry calls this 'tachigare' (loss of appetite), but for us, the flavor we're looking for is achieved slightly after that point. While there are individual differences, about three years is the optimal number we've identified for the best finish."
All criteria for judgment, such as feed and fattening period, are based on the deliciousness of the beef. When tasting, they ensure all conditions are the same, such as grilling time and turning timing, and conduct blind tests without salt or anything else, to avoid preconceived notions. The excellent flavor of the meat itself has earned a reputation, and in recent years, orders from luxury hotels, long-established department stores, and high-end restaurants have been continuous.
"Currently, we mostly receive direct orders from restaurants and department stores, but when we were less known, we also supplied to markets. Our cattle are smaller than others, so it was a bit embarrassing. But recently, I've noticed a trend where marbling is not as sought after. It seems some people say, 'I want the luxurious feel of A5 grade, but rich fat gives me an upset stomach' (laughs)."
Restaurants that purchase their meat say that "Nagomi Nosan's meat often gets reordered," and people who have tasted it at restaurants or hotels come to visit, saying they "were moved by that flavor."
"If the fat is too rich, you need a strongly flavored sauce, but with our beef, just salt and pepper are enough. People often tell us that our fat is light, refreshing, easy to eat, and sweet, and that's precisely because we've prioritized flavor over grade. My favorite way to eat it is simply grilled."
To produce healthy, high-quality meat,
we raise each animal with meticulous care.
Calves, during the period when their bones and muscles are developing, are kept in medium-sized barns to allow for plenty of exercise. Adult cattle, before shipment, are kept in slightly smaller barns to encourage fat accumulation.
The barn we visited was clean, spacious, and well-ventilated. They also consider the compatibility of the cattle placed in the same enclosure, creating a stress-free environment. The sawdust laid in the barn is sourced from a nearby sawmill. Fresh sawdust is added every 2-3 days, so there is hardly any odor from manure or urine. The cattle are healthy, so there are almost no illnesses or injuries.
"I've visited various producers both domestically and internationally, but the cattle here seem to be relaxing with very calm and gentle expressions. I'm curious about the water. I think it affects the taste of the meat, so what kind of water do you give them? They might indirectly be ingesting Yamagata's melted snow water from the local rice," says Wachi. Cattle drink 20-50 liters of water a day, so it's a pertinent question.
"It's groundwater. The water around here is slimy, like hot spring water. There are hot springs nearby too. It's high in minerals and has a diuretic effect, which has the drawback of making the cows urinate too much (laughs). Since the barn gets dirty, we dilute it with tap water as needed," says the farm manager.
In fact, cattle that consume excessive concentrated feed are said to be prone to urinary stones, but perhaps due to frequent urination thanks to this water, Nagomi Nosan's cattle are less susceptible.
"Cattle are delicate animals that are susceptible to stress. Their living environment and relationships with other cattle can lead to anorexia, and if they are unwell for about three days, they can suddenly die. That's why we have a veterinarian on staff, and we feed them fresh, blended feed every day. It's also important to observe each animal and create an environment where they can be healthy both physically and mentally."
Nagomi Nosan's rearing methods are far removed from industrial livestock farming that emphasizes efficiency. Only those deemed to have the finest finish are shipped as "Nagomi no Kanade," their private brand of beef.
"All of our cattle are exceptionally delicious, but 'Nagomi no Kanade' is what we are particularly confident in. It accounts for only about 10-20% of the total, so it's quite rare. Rather than trying to convey our dedication with words, we'd prefer you try it first. You'll surely understand the depth of flavor and the sweetness of the fat."
