Longing for Circular Organic Agriculture Started farming in Ogawamachi
Located in Hiki District, Saitama Prefecture, about an hour from central Tokyo, there is a town called Ogawamachi, surrounded by satoyama (rural areas) and blessed with a clear stream. Ogawamachi is known as an organic town where organic farming thrives, and in 2023 it will be declared an "organic village."
One of the pioneers of organic farming is Ryuichi Tanoshita of Kaze no Oka Farm.
The ingredients handled by "A RESTAURANT FOODS" are for chefs who actually come face to face with ingredients and get inspiration from them. So this time, we visited "Kaze no Oka Farm" together with chef Yasumichi Muto of the restaurant "Eme" and visiting chef Eriko Kishimoto.
Although he was born in Tokyo, from a young age he had a desire to work in a spacious place, and at one point he aspired to become a dairy farmer in Hokkaido.
"I was 19 at the time, so I didn't know anything. I worked there for about a year and a half, but I realized there was no way I could raise the money to buy cows and a barn on my own, so I gave up."
He returned to Tokyo and worked for a company for a while, but he often remembers how the potatoes and tomatoes he grew for himself in his garden in Hokkaido were very fragrant and delicious.
Also, by learning about part of society through his work in logistics, he felt a stronger desire to "work in a job that involves making things rather than transporting them."It was around the time he was thinking, "Agriculture is great, because work is your livelihood and you can make a living from your work," that he came across Frostpia Farm in Ogawa Town.
Frostpia Farm is the farm that established the foundation for Ogawamachi being known as an "organic village." Since 1971, when organic farming was not yet commonplace, farm owner Yoshito Kaneko has been practicing organic farming, growing crops without the use of pesticides or chemical fertilizers, by creating soil that utilizes the power of microorganisms.
It was also a recycling-based agriculture method, with livestock eating weeds and pests and using their manure as compost. The sale of harvested goods bypassed the market, and the expansion of the "partnership" system, whereby produce was delivered regularly to consumers, was another achievement, establishing the management foundation for organic farming.
His belief and passion for organic farming resonated with many people, and an increasing number of people in Ogawamachi began training and practicing organic farming. Trainees from overseas were also moved by his spirit, and some even named their children "Kaneko." Eventually, the circle of people involved expanded, and as organic agricultural production became more secure, organic products such as sake made from organic rice, tofu made from organic soybeans, and soy sauce began to be developed.
The sale of these local specialties has revitalized the local economy, and now both Frostpia Farm and Ogawa Town are attracting attention from around the world.
Frostpia Farm has also placed great emphasis on human resource development, and has accepted a considerable number of trainees from all over the world to date, with Tanoshita being a member of the second batch. He says that even now he respects the founder, Kaneko Yoshito, as his mentor.
"I had built up my stamina from working on a dairy farm, and after a year of training I was able to learn the general flow of the business, so I decided to go independent and start farming. That was 42 years ago. At the time, there was almost no support for new farmers, so at first it was difficult even to rent a field. My master asked an acquaintance, and we were able to rent one hectare of rice paddy and three hectares of field."
He got married at the same time as he started his own business, and together with his wife Mieko, he started "Kaze no Oka Farm." After about six years, he came across the land where he currently resides, and moved there to the present day.
It's a peaceful land surrounded by hills. There's water. There isn't much damage from animals, and we only have to take measures against birds like crows. Every time I walk along the edge of the fields, I see grasshoppers flying around.
Ogawamachi, located in a mountainous region with little flat land, is not originally an ideal place for farming. Vegetable-producing areas in Japan that produce a large amount of small-scale produce often have volcanic ash soil. The soil, which has weathered from volcanic ash that fell after volcanic eruptions, is also known as "kuroboku soil" and is characterized by its good drainage and excellent breathability. The soft soil allows radishes and turnips to grow with a smooth skin.
However, Ogawamachi, surrounded by the Hiki Hills and plateaus, has alluvial soil, which is made up of mountain sediment carried by rivers. Because the soil is heavy and poorly drained, the vegetables tend to look unattractive. However, this makes up for the rich mineral content and rich flavor. It is the rich forest resources and abundant water resources that shape the flavor of Ogawamachi's vegetables.
"Next door is Kumagaya City, which is said to be the hottest city in Japan, and it also gets very hot here during the day. But on winter nights, the temperature can drop to minus 8°C. In other words, the annual temperature difference is large, more than 20°C. This stress increases the sweetness of the vegetables."
From soil preparation to living mulch Farming methods that are close to nature
After farming on this land for 42 years, I have come to realize the difficulties of farming, which you cannot control, and the importance of creating good soil.
"We're in the weather business, so just when we're almost ready to harvest, a typhoon can blow everything away. Or we're happy that we've harvested a lot of good produce, but the price drops because of the bumper crop. No matter how hard we try, there are many things we can't do on our own. Especially now with the climate crisis, so many unprecedented events are happening and it's impossible to predict what will happen."
Due to global warming in recent years, the harvest period for vegetables that are in season in early summer is apparently coming earlier than usual.
"This is the first time we've had such a short rainy season, so I'm worried about the summer vegetables. A few years ago, during a drought, the reservoir dried up and the rice fields cracked. I almost wish a typhoon would come." 
Because he doesn't want to put a burden on the environment, he chooses biodegradable materials for mulch and binding tape. He always carries scissors with him for harvesting and pruning, and he sharpens and maintains them himself.
What Mr. Tashimo values is creating the soil that serves as the foundation for everything.
"Farming is hard work and there is no control over it, but it's also work where your hard work pays off. We don't use pesticides, so you have to remove any insects you find, or lure the plants into the sun, and you still need to take care of them diligently. But if you prepare the soil well, the vegetables will grow on their own. If you do it for a long time, you gradually learn to let go of some of the pressure."
The compost, which is essential for soil improvement, is sourced from a compost factory in the neighboring town.
"Previously, I used to make compost using manure received from nearby livestock farmers, but I became concerned that it might contain residual hormones, antibiotics, and heavy metals. After the Great East Japan Earthquake, I began measuring radiation levels, and I wanted to respond to my customers' desire for safer products. So for over 10 years, I have been using compost made by fermenting food waste such as food scraps from supermarkets, as well as rice husks. For summer vegetables that need additional fertilization, I buy oil residue from the mashing of non-genetically modified domestic rapeseed from the nearby Yonezawa Oil Company, and combine it with rice bran to make a bokashi mixture."
Relationships built on "delicious food" bring joy and pride to farmers
The greatest joy for a farmer is when he produces delicious vegetables, and seeing the restaurants and consumers who buy them happy is what makes his job worthwhile.
Chef Muto and visiting chef Kishimoto accompanied us on the interview, and Tashita picked peppers, Moroccan green beans, tomatoes, and other produce for them to try on the spot.
"These vegetables have a very clean taste, with no unpleasant peculiar taste at all," says Muto. "When I talk to Mr. Tashita, I feel that the taste of the vegetables and the impression of the fields are exactly the same," adds Kishimoto.
"The closer the relationship with the people who eat our products, the more rewarding it is. The first restaurant that used our products held a social event between producers and customers. We were able to hear directly from the people who had eaten our products, and it made us feel that our products were being treated with care, which made us very happy. We have received many referrals from them."
Tashita believes that good vegetables are delicious just as they are, or simply steamed or grilled. He would be happy if the vegetables were cooked in a way that allowed the flavor to come through directly. However, professional chefs often bring out even more flavor, so the people who grow the vegetables are often surprised, saying, "I didn't know the vegetables would taste like this!"
"I think that seasonal outdoor produce is the most delicious. My favourites are probably winter spinach and carrots. They grow slowly and steadily despite the large temperature differences, so they absorb a variety of nutrients from the soil. Even if it's too cold and the frost damages their appearance, they still have a sweet taste and are often more delicious than the lush, green produce."
Spring is the off-season, so there's less harvesting work, but sowing and planting are busy, and in summer there's the battle against heatstroke. In autumn, the weather is nice and there's a plentiful harvest, so there's a sense of ease, but in winter, the more you work while keeping your hands warm in the car, the quicker your hands get numb and sore. When the pain in your hands goes away, you know "spring has arrived." The seasons go by in this way, but farming work is physically demanding no matter what the season.
Tashimo always heads out to the fields before 5am and starts harvesting in the morning. Other staff arrive around 7am, and he returns home around 8am for breakfast. He goes back to work and there is a general meeting at 11am. On days when there are fewer staff, he helps with shipping, but most of the time he is in the fields tending to the vegetables and weeding. He has lunch at 1pm and then works in the fields again until around 6pm. Since he has to get up early in the morning, he goes to sleep immediately after dinner.
"The fields are large and busy, so lunch is always simple and easy. It's miso soup with lots of vegetables, rice, and maybe one or two side dishes. It's usually just grilled vegetables and a simple meal with salt and pepper. The rice and miso are homemade, and the vegetables are freshly picked, so it's delicious enough as it is. My favorite is miso soup with potatoes and green beans. The harvest season for these two vegetables overlaps for just a short time in June, so it's a rare menu item (laughs)."
When buying vegetables at the supermarket, it's easy to lose track of what's in season, but at Kaze no Oka Farm, everything is grown outdoors, so you can feel the changing seasons through the harvest.
"Everyone thinks that edamame is a summer food. However, it was only recently that edamame was bred to be harvested in the summer to go with beer, and their original season is October.
The soybean harvest season is in November, so edamame, which are eaten when they are still young, are harvested in October. People used to eat edamame while watching the harvest moon, so they were called " Mamemeigetsu " (the moonlit bean moon). Even now, dadachamame and Tamba black soybean edamame are available in October. At home, our native soybeans are in season in October, so we eat a bowl full of edamame every night during that time."
As a leader in organic agriculture, I think about the future of food.
In his private time, Tashimo enjoys going to hot springs, watching baseball, and playing with his three grandchildren. We asked him about his dreams for the future.
"My goal in becoming a farmer was to achieve my dream of becoming self-sufficient. If you only consider income, it would be more efficient to be a specialized farmer who produces large quantities of one or two types of vegetables. But even though the bank is against it, I continue to produce a variety of vegetables in small quantities because my original goal was to be self-sufficient. The number of organic farmers in Ogawa-machi is increasing, and I feel that the community is becoming stronger and that they are supporting the local food supply. However, I am worried about Japan's self-sufficiency rate. I think we need to aim to become a country where people can eat what they produce themselves."
Japan's food self-sufficiency rate, an indicator of the proportion of food consumed domestically that is produced domestically, is considered to be quite low among developed countries. This is due in part to changes in dietary habits, such as increased consumption of wheat and meat, but is also primarily due to a decline in the number of people working in agriculture due to an aging population and a lack of successors. Producers, consumers, and the government need to work together to address this issue.
"Looking at the current rice shortage, I think that the country needs to create a system that will continue to produce food for the country while nurturing successors. Even in Ogawa Town, most of the people who work the 15 hectares of rice fields are in their 70s, and the amount of idle and abandoned farmland is increasing. If things continue like this, we won't have enough food. I'm worried about relying solely on imports. When it comes to food for export, I don't think they're thinking about the people who will eat it.
"Dealing with people you know face-to-face is safe and secure, and you can get a steady supply of vegetables. I would like to continue training people who want to become organic farmers, and spread productive organic farming."
